Campeche Travel Guide: this fortified port city – once an infamous pirate haunt – boasts rooted cuisine, restored hacienda hotels, spectacular coastlines and UNESCO World Heritage status. With virtually no crowds.
Campeche Travel Guide: Best Things to Do In & Around Mexico’s Walled Seaside City
Last updated: April 2024
On the other side of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula – far removed from the hustle and bustle of tourist-laden Cancun – awaits the sleepy yet spectacular state of Campeche. Read: an off-the-beaten-path treasure trove threaded with ancient Maya archaeological sites hidden deep in the jungle, enchanting hacienda stays, incredible endemic cuisine and a shimmering Gulf coastline that remains largely untouched. Plus, its crown jewel: San Francisco de Campeche (i.e. Campeche City), historic anchor and UNESCO-designated capital of the eponymous state.
I’ve been wanting to visit this storied seaside city for quite some time. Between its legendary coastal history (think: pirates, preserved forts and original city gates), colorful colonial architecture and a growing restoration scene perhaps most apparent in the city’s rising crop of design-forward hotels, it doesn’t disappoint. Not to mention the city’s wealth of museums, where relics maritime to Maya count the famed jade masks as discovered at nearby Calakmul. Or the fabulous cuisine, locally sourced and prepared from land to sea – even underground.
Related: Your Ultimate Travel Guide to Mérida, Mexico: Yucatán’s Vibrant Capital City
It’s no wonder San Francisco de Campeche was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. Yet with so much to offer, Campeche remains the least visited of the three states that comprise the Yucatán Peninsula. (Quintana Roo, home to the Riviera Maya, and Yucatán are the other two.) Though with the region’s forthcoming Maya Train slated to arrive by 2024, this is all about to change.
Which all leads me to make a bold prediction: San Francisco de Campeche, plus its untapped surrounds, will be Mexico’s next it-destination.
In this self-attested Campeche travel guide we give you the best of the revivalist city – hotels, cuisine and cantinas to historic forts, white sand beaches and fabled archaeological sites – so you can visit now, before everyone else does.
Campeche Travel Guide: How to Get to Campeche City
Drive. Rent a set of wheels and buckle up. You’ve got a six hour road trip from Cancun, four hours from Valladolid or two hours from Mérida.
ADO Bus. Get comfortable in those reclining seats and enjoy the jungle views. Campeche City has its own stop.
Fly into Campeche International Airport. The catch? Currently, the singular flight route arriving into Campeche is from Mexico City (operated by AeroMéxico). International flights are not operating at present, nor are direct connecting flights from nearby Cancun, Mérida or Chetumal airports. Repeat: all flights into Campeche filter through Mexico City.
Maya Train: Slated to roll into the Campeche region sometime in 2024. Watch this space.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. This means if you click on one such link and make a purchase through it, we may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.
Campeche Travel Guide: Where to Stay / Best Hotels in Campeche City
The hotel scene in Campeche is small yet growing, ranging from boutique hotels housed in restored colonial manors to modern seaside stays with-a-view. Plus, a historic hacienda right in town.
Best Hotels in Campeche City: Hacienda Campeche
The grand dame of Campeche hotels, Hacienda Campeche takes residence in a beautifully restored, 17th-century Spanish colonial hacienda. In addition to luxurious amenities like plush king beds, bathrobes, and spa-like bathrooms, rooms and suites feature such restituted accents as checkered tile floors, exposed wood beams supporting eighteen foot ceilings and stately double doors carved from native tropical hardwood.
Throughout the property, lush garden surrounds are met with romantic arches and gracefully aged stonework. Plus: an on-site spa, open-air restaurant and magnificently designed swimming pool weaving in and out of original stone walls.
Best Hotels in Campeche City: Narrativ Lofts
On an unassuming side street just steps from Calle 59, Narrativ Lofts hides in plain sight. This tranquil two-suite refuge – choose from Casa Serena or Casa Solario – takes shape in a masterfully restored colonial home, brought to life from hotelier and conservationist Sebastien Larmier. The French native-turned-Campechano of fifteen+ years is a key player in the city’s growing restoration scene, working hand-in-hand with the community (not to mention UNESCO) to preserve, revitalize and respect Campeche’s Historic Center.
At Narrativ, minimalist design pairs with locally sourced decór and calming hues, outfitted with every modern comfort (think: fully equipped kitchens, Nespresso machines and excellent wifi) for short or long-term stays. Most recently, Larmier introduced two more exceptionally transformed suites to the portfolio: Casa Numen and Casa Lira, located in a second Narrativ outpost on Calle 59.
Best Hotels in Campeche City: Gamma Campeche Malecón
If an ocean view is what you’re after, Gamma Campeche Malecón is our top choice. An advantageous location puts this resort-style stay directly in between the heart of the malecón (seaside promenade) and Puerta de Mar (Sea Gate, i.e. the entrance to Calle 59 and Campeche’s Historic Center). Rooms range from Standard to Ocean View, each splashed with a coastal color palate of soothing turquoise and cheerful yellow.
One king or two double beds, a work desk and 24 hour room service are on offer across all room types; those upgrading to Ocean View can further expect a spacious balcony. The seaside property counts plenty of on-site amenities, too, like a gym, business center and two restaurants serving cuisine international to Italian. Plus: an outdoor bar conveniently located by the glistening, lounger-lined swimming pool.
There’s more! See the rest of Campeche’s Best Hotels in our complete guide:
Best Hotels In Campeche: Boutique Hideaways & Haciendas to Rooms-with-a-View
Best Hotels Near Campeche City: Hacienda Uayamon
A thirty minute drive outside of Campeche’s Historic Center brings you to the small Maya community of Uayamón and with it, namesake Hacienda Uayamon. Tucked in the middle of remote jungle, the origins of this storied property stretch all the way back to the 17th century when it was nothing more than a humble cattle ranch. Later, it became one of the largest and most prosperous henequen haciendas in the region.
Today, Hacienda Uayamon exudes artisan revival as a luxury boutique hotel boasting preserved historical beauty, untouched remoteness, savory local cuisine, restorative wellness offerings (including an exceptional swimming pool) and twelve palatial rooms and suites. All, immersed in vast verdant surrounds anchored by a 300-year old ceiba tree welcoming guests to the property.
There’s more! We have everything you need to know about Hacienda Uayamon – rooms to candlelit dinners to that stunning pool – in our full check-in report:
Checking in: Hacienda Uayamon, a Restored Oasis in Mexico’s Remote Jungle
Campeche Travel Guide: Where to Eat & Drink / Best Restaurants, Cafés and Bars in Campeche
Dining in Campeche is a rooted experience, spanning freshly caught seafood to locally sourced land fare. Plus: coffee, cocktails and cantinas.
Where to Eat & Drink in Campeche / Best Breakfast Restaurants & Coffee Shops
In the morning, fuel up at breakfast hot spot Luan. The popular café is located on a quiet stretch of Calle 59, resides in a converted colonial-era home complete with kitschy checkered floors, and serves up heaping portions of chilaquiles (a brothy dish of sauteed tortilla chips covered in savory toppings) paired with fresh-squeezed jugos (juices).
Across the street, Chocol Ha cures coffee, chocolate and light bite cravings any time of day. The caffeinated oasis offers several seating spaces indoors and out, though we prefer the idyllic back garden. Around the corner, step into Origen Specialty Coffee for a welcome reprieve from the Campeche heat. Here, expertly brewed concoctions (hot or ice’d) pair with breakfast bites savory to sweet, plus powerful A/C.
Where to Eat & Drink in Campeche / Best Lunch Spots
A ten minute stroll from Campeche’s Plaza de la Independencia (main square) brings you to the quiet neighborhood of Guadalupe and with it: El Winik. This hidden gem is only open Wednesdays-Sundays from 8:30am-12:30pm, and worth the discovery for a mouthwatering menu of regional tacos that I’m still dreaming about. The options are primarily meat-leaning (try the poc chuc negro, bud de relleno and adobada asada) though vegetarians will find options too, like rajas poblanas, huevo con chaya and plátano macho frito.
On the other side of the Historic Center, Son Jarocho sits on a quiet side street across from the faded yellow facade of the Archivo Municipal de Campeche. Here, regional fare from the nearby coastal state of Veracruz is served in a casual setting for breakfast or lunch. The unhurried eatery is a great place to try such palatable plates as picadas (small fried tortillas with turned-up edges to hold savory toppings) or the huachinango a la Veracruzana (tender white fish in a spicy tomato sauce with olives and capers).
There’s more! See the rest of Campeche’s Best Lunch Eateries in our complete dining guide:
Where to Eat in Campeche City: Best Restaurants, Cafés and Cantinas
Where to Eat & Drink in Campeche / Cantinas & Cocktails
Looking to sling back a few cervezas, Mexico style? In Campeche, Salón Rincón Colonial is the best place to do it. This traditional cantina located at the end of Calle 59 – right by the Puerta de Tierra (Land Gate) – serves up brews and botanas (complimentary snacks served with each round of drinks) in a laid-back, authentic setting favored by locals and tourists alike.
In Campeche’s Plaza Principal, we recommend snagging a spot on the balcony of Casa Viejo del Río for pre-dinner drinks and bites with cathedral views. As the plaza fades to dusk, the baroque facade of the city’s 16th-century landmark lights up in spectacular fashion.
Sundowners are also best served with sea views, preferably on the oceanfront terrace at Campeche Country Club. Located twenty minutes outside of the Historic Center, this best-kept secret is worth the drive to soak in arguably the most mesmerizing sunset around. Visitors are welcome to enjoy the property’s beautiful bar, terrace and restaurant – Ronsel Seafood & Grill – without a membership. Reservations recommended. (Keep reading for intel on how to enjoy the property’s beachfront and stunning swimming pool with the club’s day pass.)
There’s more! See the rest of Campeche’s Best Bars in our complete dining guide:
Where to Eat in Campeche City: Best Restaurants, Cafés and Cantinas
Where to Eat & Drink in Campeche / Best Dinner Restaurants
La María Cocina Peninsular is a top pick for authentic Campeche cuisine, plus craft cocktails. The foodie paradise elevates the region’s Maya-rooted fare to perfection, like the pork belly al achiote (pork belly in native achiote paste), pan de cazón (a hearty layered casserole with dogfish) and manzana verde con pibinal (green apple with underground-cooked corn). Choose from the front dining room or the back patio: transformed into a moody, candlelit affair at night. Either way, reservations are recommended to secure your table at this popular spot.
Away from the hustle and bustle of Calle 59 in the quiet barrio of Guadalupe, La Pigua reigns supreme for freshly caught coastal fare. The location may seem unassuming, but this fine dining establishment has been delighting locals and tourists alike since 1987. The space is open and airy, where white tablecloths and wine glasses pair with encircling greenery and a soaring vaulted ceiling. The ceviche, coconut shrimp and jumbo stone crab claws are all excellent, as are top regional picks like the filete tikin-xic (achiote-marinated fish wrapped in banana leaves) and chiles xcatic rellenos de cazón (local chile peppers stuffed with dogfish).
A newcomer to the Campeche culinary scene, pass through the understated street entrance to reach the open-air garden of Cola de Gallo. This modern Mexican kitchen serves up elevated takes on traditional antojitos (cravings) like blue corn tacos and quesadillas, plus craft cocktails in an atmospheric space (think: stone walls, flickering candles and hanging neon lights). Open from 6pm Wednesday through Monday; closed Tuesdays.
There’s more! See the rest of Campeche’s Best Dinner Restaurants in our complete dining guide:
Where to Eat in Campeche City: Best Restaurants, Cafés and Cantinas
Campeche Travel Guide: Best Things to See & Do
From a wealth of museums to Maya archaeological sites to nearby white sand beaches, travelers are spoilt for choice when it comes to things to do in and around Campeche City.
Best Things to Do in Campeche City: Get Oriented
First things first: get your Campeche crash course. I love a good big bus, walking or otherwise lay-of-the-land tour when arriving to a new city (yes, as undeniably touristy as they are) and Campeche’s cheerful trolley doesn’t disappoint. The 2-hour ride takes you through the city’s Historic Center, malecón and surrounding barrios, all while providing historical and modern-day intel in both Spanish and English. Trolleys currently depart from Bazar Artesanal on the malecón, where tickets run $115 pesos per person (around $7 USD).
Best Things to Do in Campeche City: Plaza de la Independencia
Now that you have your bearings, head to Campeche’s Plaza de la Independencia (main square). Dating back to the 16th century, this storied plaza plays host to a manicured park, carob tree-shaded benches and ongoing cultural happenings, ringed by several historical buildings including the grand Campeche Cathedral.
Another such building is the Museo El Palacio (Palace Museum) – you can’t miss its porticoed, yellow facade – dedicated to the city’s maritime history. The Navigation exhibit is a fun draw, transporting you to the interiors of a ship’s hull where you can learn about important trade industries like dyewood, Campeche’s “black gold.” Admission is free.
A few steps away is Centro Cultural Casa No. 6: a beautifully preserved, circa 1770 Spanish colonial manor complete with magnificent Moorish arches. For just $20 pesos ($1 USD) you can wander around the home and get a glimpse of what life was like for early, upper crust campechanos. TIP: the entrance of the home is also where you’ll find the city’s tourist information booth.
It’s worth detouring two blocks from the plaza to marvel at, and through, Mansión Carvajal. This heritage edifice is the former home of wealthy landowner Fernando Carvajal, now housing government offices. Visitors are welcome to take a peek at the palatial space on weekdays, counting a grand spiral staircase – a masterpiece of marble and art nouveau ironwork – intricate Moorish arches and Doric columns.
Best Things to Do in Campeche City: Historic Forts & Bastions
Exit the plaza towards the malecón and you’re bound to walk right into the commanding Museo de Arquitectura Maya Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. This 17th-century bastion-turned Maya architecture museum once guarded the entrance to the city. Today, design elements from four distinct Maya regions can be seen through sculptures, engraved stelae (stone monuments) and decorative carvings. Plus: an extraordinary jade burial mask as recovered from nearby Calakmul, once a major Maya metropolis.
A few blocks away, Jardín Botánico Xmuch-Haltún (Xmuch-Haltún Botanical Garden) sits within the mottled stone walls of another historic bastion. The idyllic oasis is home to several tropical plant species, examples of Maya herbal medicine and even an endemic Palo de Tinte tree: source of a bright, red-orange dye that was a game-changer in colonial-era textiles. It became the region’s most valuable export to Europe and brought some pretty major wealth to the city. Unfortunately, this wealth also attracted pirates – making Campeche one of the most frequently sacked spots in the New World. Entry is just $15 pesos ($1 USD) and, while small, easily worth a stop to escape the Campeche heat in peaceful surrounds.
Fortified history continues northeast of the city at Museo de Arqueología Subacuática Fuerte de San José (San José Fort-turned Subaquatic Archaeological Museum). This hilltop stronghold houses a small yet interesting museum depicting Campeche through the centuries – prehistoric to Maya to colonial-era – through a collection of underwater artifacts as retrieved from sunken galleons, pirate ships and nearby cave systems and cenotes (sinkholes). Plus, fabulous views of the surrounding coastline.
On the opposite side of town, a ten-minute drive down the coast brings you to the imposing Museo Arqueológico de Campeche, Fuerte de San Miguel (Campeche Archaeological Museum-San Miguel Fort). This 18th-century citadel is Campeche’s largest, critical in defending the colonial-era city against repeated pirate attacks. Cross the working drawbridge to meander through several exhibition halls, plus the cannon-ringed roofdeck boasting sweeping harbor views. Expect an impressive collection of relics maritime to ancient Maya, including the star attraction: a set of transcendent jade burial masks from nearby Calakmul.
Best Things to Do in Campeche City: Calle 59 and City Gates
You’re bound to cross paths with Calle 59 not just once, but several times throughout your stay in Campeche. This rainbow-colored pedestrian artery connects the city’s two, 18th-century gates – Puerta de Tierra (Land Gate) and Puerta de Mar (Sea Gate) – lined with hotels, shops and eateries that spill into the cobblestone streets.
You can wander through the Puerta de Tierra for free; access to an upper platform yielding colorful city vistas comes with a nominal fee. On Friday and Saturday nights at 7:30pm, the crenellated gate comes to life as a multimedia sound and light show, plus reenactments, depict the legendary history of Campeche. Tickets are $100 pesos per adult / $50 pesos per child (approx $6 USD / $3 USD) and can be purchased on-site or at Centro Cultural Casa No. 6.
Best Things to Do in Campeche City: Artisan Shopping
Souvenir shops abound in Campeche’s Historic Center, but if you’re looking for a one-stop shop: head to Bazar Artesanal on the malecón to browse rows of artisan stalls selling everything from woven hats and hammocks to handmade jewelry and hand-carved jaguar sculptures. Another artisan market can be found inside the 18th-century Ex Templo de San José, a former Jesuit church with a fancifully tiled baroque facade.
On Calle 59, stop into Narrativ Boutique for a finely curated collection of contemporary womenswear, statement jewelry and leather handbags – all pieces are made by Mexican designers. Down the street, bohemian Linda Tierra Mia is our pick for made-in-Campeche hats, handbags and further free-spirited wares.
Related: Your Definitive Travel Guide to Izamal: Yucatán’s Sun-Kissed Yellow City
Best Things to Do in Campeche City: Malecón
Pass through the arched Puerta de Mar (Sea Gate) to reach the malecón, Campeche’s famed seaside esplanade. In the morning, you’ll find this breezy seven-kilometer boulevard dotted with joggers and cyclers; by sunset, a gathering place for locals to stroll, chat and canoodle into the night. Several sculptures, monuments and green spaces line the grand seaside stretch, best visited early evening to enjoy the city’s famed Gulf sunsets.
Standout stops include the obligatory photo op at Letras Campeche (Campeche Letters), located under the watchful eye of the Ángel Maya. Nearby, the wistful Novia del Mar pays homage to a fabled campechana who fell in love with a foreign pirate – and forever awaits his return. At night, a set of illuminated waterfront fountains brings the malecón to life with a glittering sound and light show. The production runs nightly at 8pm (except Mondays); admission is free.
Best Things to Do Near Campeche City: Maya Archaeological Sites
A mind-boggling myriad of ancient Maya archaeological sites can be found within a two hour radius of Campeche City, however two should be at the top of your list: Edzná and Calakmul. Just under an hour from Campeche’s Historic Center (passing storied Hacienda Uayamon), Edzná developed into a thriving Maya city in 200 AD – though it could have been inhabited as early as 600 BC. Today, the site boasts several climbable temples, stucco masks with remnants of original paint, intricately-carved stelae (stone monuments) and a magnificent Gran Acropolis. Plus, virtually no crowds.
Tucked deeper into the jungle – just 35 kilometers from the Guatemala border – Calakmul is an Indiana Jones-style adventure absolutely worth the effort to reach. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was once one of the most powerful epicenters of the ancient Maya, home to 50,000 residents during its height in the Late Classic period. Today, the sprawling stone city is a veritable archaeological wonderland. Think: climbable, towering temples peeking above the jungle canopy, rows of imposing stelae and intricate stucco carvings – all amongst verdant surrounds set to a soundtrack of howler monkeys swinging from rustling treetops.
You’re looking at a three hour drive from Campeche City before arriving to the entrance of Calakmul, which is where the adventure only begins. From here, another hour of driving time through dense, off-grid jungle – down a winding, single lane, wildlife-filled road – brings you to the parking lot. Given you’re going to need to clock some serious mileage to reach Calakmul, we do not recommend attempting this as a day trip. Rather, make it an overnight at Hotel Puerta Calakmul, or longer at Hotel Casa Las Lolas in nearby Xpujil: gateway to even more fascinating, under-the-radar Maya archaeological sites.
Best Things to Do Near Campeche City: Isla Aguada
A biodiverse lagoon harboring bottlenose dolphins, virgin beaches, next-level jumbo shrimp and a spectacular sandbar is the star of Mexico’s newest pueblo mágico (magical town): Isla Aguada. Located two hours south of San Francisco de Campeche, this fabled fishing village was once a hideout for clandestine pirates after pillaging the city. Today, an under-the-radar destination boasting unique ecological positioning in between the glistening Gulf of Mexico and protected Laguna de Términos (Terminos Lagoon).
While it’s possible to visit Isla Aguada on a day trip from Campeche City, we find plenty of reason to stay the night – or two. Find out everything you need to know about this coastal gem in our complete Isla Aguada Travel Guide.
Best Things to Do Near Campeche City: White Sand Beaches
No trip to Campeche is complete without lazing away a day along one of the region’s sublime stretches of pristine white sand. While you won’t find such a shoreline in town, you’ll find several nearby.
Best Beaches Near Campeche City: Playa Bonita
Located twenty minutes from Campeche’s Historic Center, Playa Bonita is a great way to spend a leisurely beach day. A $100 peso (approx $6 USD) entry fee grants access to the sprawling beachfront, plus shaded palapas and on-site bathrooms and showers. Beach chairs and loungers are available for an additional fee. The serviced beach hang counts three restaurants, all touting similar menus of casual coastal fare, tropical cocktails and of course – ice cold cerveza.
Best Beaches Near Campeche City: Campeche Country Club
Level up your beach day at Campeche Country Club: a hidden paradise boasting a combed beachfront, fabulous swimming pool, jacuzzi and plenty of coastal fare from two on-site restaurants. A day pass of $800 pesos (approx $47 USD; halved for children and teens aged 4-17) grants non-members access to the Casa Club (main house).
Note cost of the pass covers entry only and does not count towards food or drink consumption. The pass does however give you access to all above amenities, plus a fitness center and steam room, during a generous time window from 8am – 10pm. Advance reservations are required for the day pass (also to use the fitness center or steam room) which are easily made by contacting the property through WhatsApp.
Best Beaches Near Campeche City: Bahía de Tortugas
Just over an hour’s drive from Campeche City brings you to the coastal paradise of Bahía de Tortugas: a near-virgin shoreline boasting shimmering, shallow and crystal clear water in the most ethereal way. The beachfront is flawless, awash with powdery white sand that stretches endlessly to either side. Rows of swaying palms frame the postcard-perfect scene.
To enjoy this slice of paradise you’ll need to enter through, and consume from, the singular namesake restaurant, though we’re sure you’ll be up for the challenge. Think: casual coastal fare, tropical cocktails and cocos frios served tableside (indoors or toes-in-the-sand) or to your beachfront, palapa-shaded lounger. Plus: a swimming pool, volleyball net and kayaks.
You must be logged in to post a comment.